Friday 12 November 2010

Joys of Beaujolais Nouveau?

Extract for your gastronomic amusement....

While living in Europe, one of the more fun annual events was anticipation of the annual Beaujolais Nouveau, or the new wine from the season’s gamay grapes.

One minute past midnight bottles of the year’s new wine would be uncorked, appropriately inhaled and sipped with a bit of pomp and circumstance.

After living in France during college, my daughter Jori told us that the day after the Beaujolais Nouveau was opened, public transportation goes on strike. Too much vino? All said and done, millions of bottles of the new wine are waiting to be opened to celebrate the harvest of new grapes.

I stopped down at Malloy’s Wine & Spirits at 1020 Maple Ave. in Lisle just west of Walgreens, and spoke with Rich Dabbert, manager for Malloy’s, about this year’s Beaujolais Nouveau. Dabbert said they are expecting at least four different brands of the new wine and prices will most likely range from $9 to $11 a bottle.

He added that Americans don’t quite celebrate the Beaujolais Nouveau as they did a decade ago, with crates flown in at great expense for the third Thursday of November.

What changed, I asked Dabbert.

“Sept. 11th,” he replied. “It was part of the backlash against France ... part of the ‘freedom fries’ protest after Sept. 11, 2001.”

Dabbert has been in the retail business for many years and in liquor sales since 1990. Previously with Osco, Dabbert is quite happy to be in the “classy wine store that also sells spirits” as one customer described Malloy’s.

Described by many as one of the most frivolous and animated rituals in the wine world, Dabbert explained that in fact the celebration of the new season’s wine was actually tied in with agriculture.

“It’s a festive time, sort of like agriculture because all the gamay grapes are handpicked and labor intensive,” he said. “It’s a quick wine, so people take the time out to enjoy and celebrate the first wines.”

While Beaujolais Nouveau is a very light, red wine, it’s not a wine that would not normally keep well for more than a year. Many people who are not a fan of red wines do enjoy the Beaujolais Nouveau because of the lack of tannins, which can give a strong taste.

Malloy’s has been in Lisle for more than three years and according to Dabbert, was designed to be an upscale wine store. They recently added a selection of fine cheese, which is also featured every Saturday during wine tastings.

Twice a year Malloy’s offers a wine tasting with more than 100 bottles of wine.

“The fall tasting usually is held the first weekend in November and the spring tasting is the Saturday before Mother’s Day,” Dabbert said.

I asked Dabbert which was his favorite wine out of the more than 2,000 bottles in the store.

“If I’m going to be sitting down and eating a nice light meal, the ‘A to Z Pinot Gris’ is marvelously light,” he said. “But if I’m having a meal, a lamb roast, boned with lots of garlic, I like to have a Syriah. Lamb is a little fatter and the acid (in the wine) produces a marvelous flavor.”

Dabbert also said the Malbec wines from Argentina have been extremely popular recently, and a personal favorite of mine.

If you’re looking for a reason to celebrate the week before Thanksgiving, consider trying the Beaujolais Nouveau on the 18th. A loaf of bread, a bottle of wine and ... cheese!

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